A Trip of a Lifetime: Eastern & Oriental Express
I first spotted the Eastern & Oriental Express parked in my hometown of Johor Bahru, and I knew I had to travel on this train. The carriers painted in cream and green with gold detail fit in perfectly with its Southeast Asian surroundings. Built in the 1970’s, the wooden panel interiors furnished in silk with classic Asian patterns make it hard not to think back to a time long forgotten.
We set off on our three-day journey from Singapore, chugging our way through the Malaysian heartland and ending up in Bangkok. After getting our passports stamped by the border officers, we were welcomed aboard with delicious champagne and afternoon tea. It was the perfect start to the journey as we enjoyed our tea while we watched the world whizz through in the comfort of our cabin. With the monsoon rain spattering the window partially blurring the views, I felt oddly sentimental watching my hometown (the neighbouring Malaysian city to Singapore) from the train as I recognised many familiar spots from my childhood. Occasionally as the train slowed down at certain stations, we would find the locals smiling and waving at us. The train travelled in and out of the countryside, villages and small towns as the sun set.
As we approached dinner time, an announcement came through the speaker of our cabin and we were invited to start making our way to the ornamental dining car. With the train gently rattling away, I was swayed side to side while I navigated the narrow corridors of the sleeping cabins. The corridors are so narrow it really only fit an average person at a time, so we’d have to lean against the wall if someone else wanted to pass through. It’s all part of the experience and these little things made me feel thoroughly as if I was in the movie Murder on the Orient Express (but with a less dramatic plot).
The food served on Eastern & Oriental Express was exceptional. Combining European and Southeast Asian cooking techniques and flavours, the fusion dishes were designed and executed to perfection. Sprinkled with little surprises, I loved the familiarity in these dishes with a twist of refinement. Hats off to the kitchen team for serving some of the most delicious fusion food I’ve ever tasted, all on a moving train no less.
After dinner, we returned to our ‘The Pullman’ cabin, which was transformed into a bedroom by Po, our car manager. Over the next few days, Po would be looking after all the passengers in our car, with the utmost care and attention in making sure that this trip is as special as it could possibly be.
The next morning we woke up to a beautiful sunrise. Breakfast was served in our cabin where we were revitalised watching the stunning Malaysian landscape coloured in the most gorgeous hues of pink and orange, turning into the purest sky blue. There couldn’t possibly be a better way to experience the first morning on Eastern & Oriental Express.
We got off for a brief excursion at Kuala Kangsar in the northern Perak state of Malaysia. It was a short hike to the top of a plantation. As we walked up the hill, our tour guide introduced us to different trees native to Malaysia, including rubber, durian, banana, oil palm amongst others. We were also visited a local honey collector who uses stingless bees that appear more like tiny flying ants than actual bees.
To say that we were very well fed during our time on board is an understatement. Lunch and afternoon tea ensued after we got back on board the train, which picked us up at a different station after our excursion has ended. Between the meal times, I found myself chilling out most frequently in two of my favourite spaces, the piano bar and the observation car.
The piano bar is situated in the middle of the train. In the piano bar, we found a resident pianist playing live jazz music just before dinner and throughout the evenings. On one of the evenings, the guests were entertained with an after-dinner performance of Thai traditional dance. The bar serves some exclusive cocktails you can only find on board Eastern & Oriental Express; my favourite being the Malay Jungle.
The tail of the train is where you’ll find the observation car, which is an open-air space with unrestricted views. There’s something about being able to feel the heat and taste the air of the scenery you’re seeing that makes the experience whole. For those who find the Southeast Asian heat overwhelming, you can retreat to the air-conditioned bar in the adjoining car.
On our last day of the Eastern & Oriental Express journey, we arrived in the kingdom of Thailand. Passing through miles and miles of rice paddies at dawn, the scenery was something out of a painting. Like a mirror, the still water reflected the palm trees that dotted along the edges of these paddy fields. On the horizon, limestone hills came in and out of vision.
Upon arrival at the beautiful region of Kanchanaburi, we stepped off the train for a bicycle tour around the countryside, ending with a visit to a small local village to observe the villagers’ simple way of life.
Back on the train, the mood had noticeably changed as we reluctantly began to accept we would soon be reaching our final stop, Bangkok, signifying the end of this very special trip. To savour the final moments of the train journey, I decided to return to the observation car and watch the lush green landscape of the Thai countryside slowly transitioning into the increasingly chaotic urban scenes of the outskirts of Bangkok.
As the train travelled deeper and deeper into the heart of Bangkok, it was interesting to see how people were living in such close proximity to the railway, with the trains moving right next to some people’s gardens, with lines of clothing being dried or livestock running around less than five metres away from the tracks.
Basking in the golden light a few hours before sundown, the train finally came to a stop at Hua Lamphong station, bringing to an end to this trip of a lifetime. I gave the train a final look of appreciation, hardly believing that I’d been privileged and lucky enough to spend the past few days on board this beauty.
To be able to see my home country and Thailand on Eastern & Oriental Express was truly an experience like no other. Needless to say, I won’t be in a rush to forget this incredible journey.
Thank you to Belmond and Eastern & Oriental Express for having us. We were kindly gifted accommodation, food and the tour during the journey. The entire journey was shot on Leica Q, loaned to me by Leica. All words, images and opinions are my own.